Summary

The trend of modernized tasting menus has expanded across almost every cuisine. And while I respect when culinary skill applied to any dish, I find some food genres more suited to an à la carte format. This is true for Korean cuisine which known for its bold flavors and numerous components. Transforming such a rich and complex cuisine into a tasting menu is ambitious, a challenge that Atomix has been acclaimed for mastering.

Since its opening in 2018, Atomix has quickly become a global culinary icon, earning two Michelin Stars and ranking #8 on the World’s Best 50 Restaurants list in 2023. As expected, securing a reservation mirrors its fame, requiring patience and persistence.

Upon arrival at Atomix, guests are welcomed by a superbly attentive staff, wearing some of the most unique uniforms seen at such a prestigious venue. The journey to the dining area involves passing their upstairs bar, descending stairs, and entering a beautifully minimalist parlor that leads to the chef’s counter. The ambiance is intimate with low ceilings, intelligent lighting, and pristine, modern finishes. The evening unfolds with intriguing, accessible dishes accompanied by well-curated beverage pairings, ensuring a fulfilling experience.

However, considering the cost – a minimum of $450 per person before beverages, tax, and tip – the value of the experience may not align for everyone. If budget isn’t a constraint, Atomix is undoubtedly worth the visit and possibly even repeated trips. But for most, such a substantial investment in a meal should be extraordinary. While Atomix might be that pinnacle experience for some, I believe there are other venues that might be more deserving of such a significant financial commitment.

Food & Beverage

Atomix offers two types of reservations: a more affordable option at the bar and a full experience at the chef’s counter. Though the bar reservation is almost half the price, I recommend opting for the full chef’s counter experience. In instances like these, if you’re committing to a special night out, it’s worth going all in.

The chef’s counter experience begins with a choice of a house cocktail, champagne, or any desired beverage, accompanied by a selection of canapés. At my experience, the meal unfolded into an eleven-course journey, including two desserts. The beverage pairing featured seven selections: five wines (four whites and one red), one Chunju (Korean rice wine), and a white dessert wine. Each course is accompanied by an information card detailing the dish’s origin, its cultural significance, the rationale behind its inclusion, its ingredients, and even the designer of the serving dish. This thoughtful touch adds an informative dimension to the meal, fostering a deeper connection not only with the food but with Korean culture. Every dish was enjoyable, with the sea cucumber with shrimp, gochugaru, and egg, alongside aehobak rice with dubu jang, standing out as a personal favorite. The beverage pairing also impressively exceeded my expectations, which is often a disappointing aspect for many establishments.

While everything was great, nothing left a lasting impression. Chef JP and his team do a masterful job of elevating Korean cuisine in such a way that it actually becomes more flavorful and even more approachable than many regular versions, which is an incredible accomplishment itself. And while this is a good thing, there was nothing challenging or thought provoking during the meal. For the hype and price point, it fell noticeably short of the mark.

Service

The staff at Atomix are professional, friendly, attentive, and highly skilled. From the welcoming greeting at the door to the expertise of the sommeliers and waitstaff, they have it down. Given the effort it takes to secure a reservation, one would expect such high standards, but not all establishments manage to achieve this level of quality. You can tell everyone who works at Atomix genuinely wants to be there, and that energy resonates with the guests. And once more I want to point out that their uniforms are really cool, just another unique detail that makes this place special.

Atmosphere

Tasteful and purposeful minimalism, a style I particularly admire, is often mistakenly equated with unimaginative and lazy design. However, when this décor executed well, it creates a serene and therapeutic ambiance. Atomix exemplifies this, where every detail is thoughtfully considered. The choice extends from selecting your own set of chopsticks to the carefully planned lighting and even aspects often overlooked like spatial arrangement. This attention to detail makes Atomix one of the most aesthetically pleasing venues in New York City.

Vibe

With an enjoyable food, a lively staff, and an incredible atmosphere, it’s impossible not to have a great vibe. This clearly starts well before the doors open, stemming from the establishment's culture and leadership at the very top. This ethos impact the service, positively affecting every guest. Observing those around me, it was clear they were fully immersed in the experience, laughing, engaging, and thoroughly enjoying themselves. And really, that’s all you can ask to get out of a meal at such coveted restaurant..

Photo courtesy of Atomix